Essential Nose Rose
Genus Rosa
The Rosa genus produces some of perfumery's most prized materials, with their characteristic scent built on a backbone of citronellol, geraniol, and nerol — monoterpenoid alcohols that vary in ratio across species and growing regions. Two fundamentally different aromatic characters emerge depending on extraction method: steam-distilled rose otto is lighter and waxy, while solvent-extracted rose absolute is fuller and richer due to retention of larger aromatic molecules including high concentrations of phenylethyl alcohol. A systematic review and dose-response meta-analysis of 32 randomised controlled trials concluded that Rosa damascena preparations significantly reduced state anxiety, depression, and stress in adults across diverse clinical settings.[1] A comprehensive clinical review further documents anxiolytic, antidepressant, and sedative properties spanning multiple rose-based preparations and delivery routes.[2]
Rose Otto
Rosa x damascena
- Also Known As
- Damask Rose, Bulgarian Rose, Turkish Rose Otto
- Family
- Floral
- Perfumery Note
- Middle
- Intensity
- Strong
- Extraction
- Steam Distillation
- Plant Parts
- Flowers
- Origins
- Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, Iran
- Effect
- Calming & Relaxing, Romantic & Sensual, Uplifting
- Aroma
- Floral, Rich, Sweet, Honey-like, Waxy
- Applications
- Aromatherapy, Perfumery, Skincare, Bath & Body
- Price
- $$$$Steam distillation of Rosa damascena requires ~3-5 tonnes of hand-picked petals per kg of oil; the purest and most prized form of rose oil
Rose otto is the steam-distilled essential oil of Rosa x damascena, distinguished by its transparent, luminous quality and the presence of stearoptene — a solid waxy fraction of long-chain hydrocarbons that crystallises at room temperature. Its aromatic character is dominated by citronellol (15-47%) and geraniol (8-30%), with nerol contributing a softer green-floral nuance.[3] Clinically, inhalation of Rosa damascena aromatherapy significantly reduced anxiety scores and improved sleep quality in burn patients compared to controls in a randomised trial.[4]
Rose Absolute
Rosa x damascena
- Also Known As
- Rose Absolute de May, Bulgarian Rose Absolute
- Family
- Floral
- Perfumery Note
- Middle
- Intensity
- Very Strong
- Extraction
- Solvent Extraction
- Plant Parts
- Flowers
- Origins
- Bulgaria, Morocco, Turkey, France
- Effect
- Calming & Relaxing, Romantic & Sensual, Uplifting
- Aroma
- Floral, Rich, Deep, Honey-like, Darker than Otto
- Applications
- Aromatherapy, Perfumery, Skincare, Bath & Body
- Price
- $$$$Solvent extraction of rose petals; still requires enormous quantities of hand-harvested flowers and yields a richer, waxier product than Otto
Rose absolute is produced by solvent extraction of Rosa x damascena flowers, yielding a richer, denser material than steam-distilled otto because the non-aqueous solvent captures high-boiling aromatic molecules — most notably phenylethyl alcohol, which constitutes up to 78% of the absolute but is largely lost into the distillation water during steam processing. This elevated phenylethyl alcohol content gives the absolute its characteristically deep, honeyed, slightly narcotic intensity that perfumers prize for oriental and floral compositions. GC analysis confirmed that the absolute contains significantly higher levels of alpha-tocopherol and beta-carotene than the distilled oil, reflecting its broader molecular capture.[5] A subsequent systematic review affirmed anxiolytic and antidepressant activity across Rosa damascena preparations, underpinned by the same phenylethyl alcohol and geraniol chemistry present in the absolute.[6]
Rose Centifolia
Rosa centifolia
- Also Known As
- Cabbage Rose, May Rose, Provence Rose, Hundred-Petalled Rose
- Family
- Floral
- Perfumery Note
- Middle
- Intensity
- Strong
- Extraction
- Solvent Extraction
- Plant Parts
- Flowers
- Origins
- France (Grasse), Morocco, Egypt
- Effect
- Calming & Relaxing, Romantic & Sensual, Uplifting
- Aroma
- Floral, Sweet, Delicate, Powdery, Lighter than Damascena
- Applications
- Aromatherapy, Perfumery, Skincare, Bath & Body
- Price
- $$$$Rosa centifolia from Grasse is used almost exclusively for absolute production; hand-picked petals with a very low yield per tonne
Rosa centifolia, cultivated primarily in Grasse and Morocco, yields an absolute with a lighter, powdery-sweet character that distinguishes it clearly from the richer, more honeyed profile of Rosa damascena absolute. Its aromatic profile is dominated by phenylethyl alcohol alongside geraniol, citronellol, and nerol, but with a higher proportion of monoterpene compounds — a comparative subcritical-extraction study of oil-bearing roses recorded monoterpene concentrations peaking at 11.9-25.5% in R. centifolia, higher than co-analysed damascena material.[7] A comprehensive phytochemistry and pharmacology review of the Rosa genus confirms antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and sedative activities across Rosa centifolia preparations, consistent with its long-standing use in Grasse perfumery and traditional medicine.[8]
Rose Damascena Absolute
Rosa x damascena
- Also Known As
- Damascus Rose Absolute, Attar of Roses Absolute, Bulgarian Rose Absolute
- Family
- Floral
- Perfumery Note
- Middle
- Intensity
- Medium
- Extraction
- Solvent Extraction
- Plant Parts
- Flowers
- Origins
- Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco
- Effect
- Balancing, Calming & Relaxing
- Aroma
- Floral, Rich, Deep, Honey, Warm
- Applications
- Aromatherapy, Perfumery, Skincare, Bath & Body
- Price
- $$$$Solvent-extracted Rosa damascena absolute; comparable yield to Rose Otto but a distinct aromatic profile preferred in modern perfumery
Rosa x damascena absolute is produced by solvent extraction of the concrete, yielding an orange-red liquid chemically distinct from the steam-distilled otto: absolute is dominated by phenylethyl alcohol (~78%), whereas otto is characterised by citronellol and geraniol (>55% combined), reflecting the absolute's capacity to capture wax-soluble and heat-labile aromatic compounds lost during distillation.[5] The solvent process also concentrates higher levels of tocopherols and carotenoids relative to essential oil and hydrosol, contributing to the richer, deeper aroma profile prized in perfumery.[5]
References
- [1]Rosa Damascena mill for treating adults' anxiety, depression, and stress: A systematic review and dose-response meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials — Rasooli T et al. Phytotherapy Research, 2021
- [2]Therapeutic efficacy of rose oil: A comprehensive review of clinical evidence — Mohebitabar S et al. Avicenna Journal of Phytomedicine, 2017
- [3]Volatile constituents of essential oil and rose water of damask rose (Rosa damascena Mill.) cultivars from North Indian hills — Verma RS, Padalia RC, Chauhan A, Singh A, Yadav AK. Natural Products Research, 2011
- [4]The effects of Rosa damascene aromatherapy on anxiety and sleep quality in burn patients: A randomized clinical trial — Mokhtari R, Mirbagher Ajorpaz N, Abdi K, Golitaleb M. Burns, 2023
- [5]Tocopherol, carotene, phenolic contents and antibacterial properties of rose essential oil, hydrosol and absolute — Ulusoy S, Boşgelmez-Tinaz G, Seçilmiş-Canbay H. Current Microbiology, 2009
- [6]Evidence for Rosa damascena efficacy in mental disorders in preclinical animal studies and clinical trials: A systematic review — Mohamadi N et al. Phytotherapy Research, 2022
- [7]Subcritical Extracts from Major Species of Oil-Bearing Roses — A Comparative Chemical Profiling — Dobreva A et al. Molecules, 2021
- [8]A Comprehensive Review on Phytochemistry and Pharmacology of Rosa Species (Rosaceae) — Fayaz F et al. Current Topics in Medicinal Chemistry, 2024